Here is the cj2A project, it just needs finishing, but it's off to a great start, not resto, more like a resto-mod.






1942 CJ2A
chevy 4.3
turbo 350
power steering conversion
hanging pedal conversion
painless wiring
lokar shifter
all new gauges
front disc brakes
dana 20 t case
tom woods cv shaft
dana 44 rear 3.73
dana 27 front
new body
gusseted original frame no rust at all

it needs exhaust, an ebrake and a lot of fine tuning, but i am excited to get this on the road for spring, work the bugs out of it over the summer then paint it next winter.

awesome !

That is a nice rig.

Nice! But how are you going to fit in there? You're taller than I am.

its doable

That's beautiful Paul.
Nicely done.

*DROOL*

Got the exhaust all tacked, ran the driver side pipe around the front and to the other side where it picks up the other collector and then down the inside of the frame and out the back...very happy the way it came out.


front connector pipe


picking up the collector on the passenger side


muffler all tucked up and safe


out the back

Gonna be ready for the open house next weekend?

Ahhh...no, but i'm getting close

What's left?

WILLYS PUNCH LIST

MUST BE DONE
INSTALL ROLL BAR
MOUNT E-BRAKE HANDLE
SHORTEN AND SECURE EBRAKE CABLES
CHANGE OIL
INSTALL MIRRORS
SECURE WIRING
PURCHASE SEAT PADS AND COVERS
BUILD EXHAUST
INSTALL THROTTLE BRACKETS
INSTALL REAR SEAT
INSTALL SEAT BELTS
FIX RUNNING FRONT RUNNING LIGHTS
SECURE BRAKE AND FUEL LINES
INSTALL TUNNEL AND BOOTS
windsheild wipers
shocks
steering stabilizer

Would like to get done

Get tow bar.
Adjust carb
Adjust timing
install new spark plugs
cut ubolts


FUTURE WORK

purchase side spreaders for cage
INSTALL SIDE SPREADERS ON CAGE
INSTALL FUEL TANK UNDER REAR
INSTALL WINCH
FIX TCASE SHIFTERS
SWAP IN FRONT DANA 30
rear lockright
ubolt skids
install CB

You must mean install fuel injection. Its what all the cool kids do.

When i find a TBI off a 4.3 i will toss it on, but for now it is about keeping it running as much as it is now...no steps backwards. It runs real good now that i have the choke fixed, i think it is a little lean though.

Here's all you need for May 10th, the rest if fluff... Easily done this w/e. Glad I could help!

CHANGE OIL
SECURE WIRING
BUILD EXHAUST
INSTALL THROTTLE BRACKETS
SECURE BRAKE AND FUEL LINES
INSTALL TUNNEL AND BOOTS
shocks
Attach plate from trailer...
Go to Gil's.

I like it!!
You still need to shorten your rear driveshaft just a little.
Doug

A rear driveshaft that's shorter than mine! Wow..

Looks pretty much ready to go down the road... Caravan to Gil's?

All set to go on Saturday???

No, but could't go if i was...we have lacross at 10 and baseball at 1:30.

i hope to get the exhaust welded tonight and still need to build/buy some hanger mounts

made another junkyard score and ended my seat dilemma, i found a nice set of low back cj5 seats, the fronts are mint, not a tear on them, the rear had a cigarette burn or something. I also grabbed a swing out tire / gas can carrier in perfect shape. All for $100


one of the fronts with the dirt wiped off

thats what I'm talking about

make sure you reinforce the rear end sheet metal where you mount the spare tire carrier or it will rip out.

getting there, had it up and down the street a few times yesterday... she will smoke the tires a good 20+ feet if you try


A little video after the exhaust was finished
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2VBEhiXigw

i am going to make an inner plate that ties to the roll bar.

The 8274 looks like it was made for a Willys

Sounds good Paul.

Legal Baby!!!

Very nice!

Sweet ride!

thanks Steve, nice to hear from you!

here is the latest update, the Willys was drivable, and i was cruising around town with it for a few weeks, however, there were a couple of issues that had to be addressed.

The first issue was a poor running condition, it was running rough at idle, even worst when you put in gear, it was driving me crazy, i believe that issue was the carb. Although it could be an issue with the converter, but seeing the carb as a definite issue i fixed that first. The carb on there was a rebuild, but about 10 years agoi found out, and then it sat for a while, and by the looks of the sludge i poured out of the in line filter, i am sure the carb was a mess inside, so it has been replaced. It idles much better in park now, i have not tested in gear yet, because i took the tcase out, which leads to the next issue.


My other problem is really two: 1, there was no way to get a front drive shaft in there, it would hit the tranny pan if the suspension compressed an inch. 2, the second was a terrible installation of the tcase and cross member, the d20 hung down way too low and i was afraid the cross member holding up the tranny and tcase would fail as i drove down the road.

So my hope was to fix both problems by installing a d300 that i could clock up get out of the way of the new cross member i would build, make it level with the bottom of the tranny pan, and maybe allow it to clear the tranny a little better.

The d300 fits great, i was able to clock it up, and actually lower the rear output to help rear DS angle. I can now build a proper cross member and skid. I am almost done with the cross member.

But the front DS still does not clear, so my only option will be a 2ps shaft.

And with the d300 i need to redo the exhaust, so i should be a couple a more weeks before i am back on the road.

If the carb was rebuilt more than ten years ago, I'm pretty sure the compounds used in the rubber in the diaphrams and gaskets isn't compatable with today's gasoline, so that may have caused some of the problem.

Hits the tranny pan? So the tranny is so wide that it occupys some of the space thats directly between the TCase yoke and the front pumpkin pinion? By how much?

that was exactly what i was thinking, plus you would not belive the crud that i dumped out of the filter. I know the filter was put on there within the last few years, so who knows what got into it before.

Exactly! I need about an inch. Installing a t350 with a passenger side drop tcase is always a challange, it is often made workable by offsetting the whole drivetrain an 1.5-2" to the driveside, but i cannot move anymore that way do to the steering shaft.

here is a pic from the JB site, in my case, do the how narrow the vehicle is, the axle end of the DS is closer to the center of the vehicle

So how about using a T98 transmission instead? After all, its not trully a 'vintage' CJ with an automatic transmission.

D30 front maybe. It's wider by a couple inches (55 vs 53, IIRC) Not sure if that moves the pinion over or not... Want me to take a measurement? Right spring plate to pinion?

I have a 30 in the garage to put in it, i never thought the pinion would be more towards the passenger side, but i guess its worth a check.

almost done with the d300 swap, the crossmember just needs to be finish welded.

here is POS crossmember the prev owner built, it only hangs down about 4" lower than where i am now.


here is where we are now.

I took a quick peek at mine this AM and the Muncie (which is a car transmission) is definately not as wide in the area of your pan. Also, do you need an inch to clear the pan? That's gonna translate to more than an inch of movement to the right for the pinion since it's another 1/2 the length of the DS away.

Maybe your thought of a 2 piece DS isn't so crazy... Some sort of mount on the bellhousing? Articulation might be a problem. hmmmm...

Sawzall and chop that corner of the pan off?

Running a two piece DS usually involves pointing it through a pillow block bearing mounted to the frame. Good idea, and very do-able.

Got the tire carrier mounted today







and started started on the 2 pc front driveshaft.

Found a carrier bearing that fits the shaft perfectly.