Having a hard time finding Spider brand u-joints here on the NH seacoast. Anyone have any ideas?

lou carries them AFAIK.

Robbins

yep.

Authorized Spicer dealer.

FYI for those that do not know (I know Dan does as he agreed when i mentioned it to him), real spicer joints are a pleasure to install. Really a night and day difference between them and an off brand.

They carry everything but u-joints.

Yes he does but I am trying to avoid taking time off from work to go during the week as he isn't open weekends and is an hour and a half away.

Never had a problem getting them out of the Dover warehouse.

Funny, the guy in Exeter told me they don't carry them.

Did you call the branch directly, or the main ordering line? I've gotten them from Robbins in the past, too.

They have Spicer U-joints by the truckload in Dover. I've been there recently.

My first rule at Robbins is never trust the counter guys, always double check with the book (phone guys know their stuff).

There is one guy in Exeter that is good, in Hampton, go to Charlie (the old guy) or the guy with the pierced face, avoid the manager, he's an idiot. Since I've moved, I've been going to Diver more often, at that shop, talk to the fat kid.

I was in the Exeter store.

I called the Dover store just now 742-0000.

They do not carry 760x joints, nor can they order them.

Tried to pawn precision on me. I told hime to pack a lunch.

Rochester Truck
335-2084

part #: 5-297 in the book...

tried to tell the guy the difference between 297 and 760...didn't work.

I will call them tomorrow with the # from the box I have at home and see...

Same here. I always call the 800# have them put a quote slip together and have everything trucked to Manchvegas or Concord. Call before 10:00 am and it's there by 2:00 pm. I don't think I've shopped anywhere but Robbins except for springs in years.

You can get the heavy duty version of Spicer 760x. Got some just a few weeks back.

I have 2 brand new 260 spicer joints that I will sell if someone needs them. I upgraded shafts instead.

Got an exact part number off your reciept? I'd almost rather have the 297's though. matter of preference I guess.

Hows this for part #s

This one shows how much larger the trunions are on the 760s than the 297 beside it.

Nate,
Where'd you get them? And how are you able to post such large pics?

he's linking the pics from another site, not attaching them to the post itself.

Correct. Those are off 4x4wire, they were posted when the 760s first came out way back when.

I didn't say where I get mine because locally I have used Rochester truck and Robins. I use GSP if I have time to think it out but that has only happened a couple times.

Okay I have both my spicer joints next to me.

I have a 5-297-1X that looks almost identical to the 297 shown. Mine has one end cap needle grease fitting on it and the lettering doesnt go around in a circle like the 297 shown

I have the 5-260-1X also looks identical the the 297 shown. Has the big body and also has the needle grease fitting in the end of one cap. It is not dished like the 760 shown. I think the 260 is the HD version of the 760.

The 260 joint I have had for a year or so when NAPA used to carry them. The 297-1X I just bought last week and paid $28.13 +tax.

Hope that helps.

BTW the 260 caps are a lot smaller than the 297. The 260 being the ones for my 90 YJ and the 297 being the one for my TJ shafts.

If you can't find them any closer, John's Shafts in Manchester carries Spicer.
He's always had them in stock.

Ok, I just spoke to Robin's in Dover and all they carry is Precision, no Spicer.



edit:
The just called me back and they do have one 760-x in the warehouse in Dover but only 1. The impression I get is they dropped the line.

Well, then it was me who cleaned out their remaining stock not to long ago.

dan,jons shafts&stuff has just about every spicer joint in stock.627-4880 me and nate go there every friday nite to do a little drinking.call nate maybe he could bring a couple u-joints home would be a little less drive.

Which joints do you need krawler? the 760's or the 297's?

Either, but I think I'm leaning to the 760-x as I've never tried them before. But would also take the 297's if they were available.

What he said! We can fix you up.

Pay no attention to that other Nate, he's showing off

Domenic also had a shelf full of Spicers when I was there last. Not exactly seacoast, but certainly a 4x4 supporter!

Okay I am confused, to many numbers. Is the 760 the same as the 297 in cap size? Or is the 760 the same as the 260 in cap size?

760 is the direct replacement for the 297. 297's are or will be obsolete. although i did see half a dozen on the rack at NEOO.

5-297x and 5-760x are the "dana 44 size" joints. 5-260x is the older dana 30 size joint found in early yjs, xjs, etc.. dana started using the larger "dana 44" size joints in 97, i believe, for the dana 30s.

the 5-760s are a nicer joint and are sealed better than the older 5-297x, but be careful when installing the triple lip seal. it is a hard plastic, rather than the flexible rubber that sealed the caps of the 5-297x, 260x, etc.

I used to work at a spicer distibutor in Alaska. I built drivelines and such. i still have a lot of my old cheat sheets on part #s for spicer, so if you got a question, i might be able to help.

hope this helps.

frosty

Sounds like a good tech write up. A list of part numbers would always be helpful to someone.

So should I take my 5-297-1x's back and get 760's?

In the part number 5-297-1x what does the 1X mean?

Scott, yes you should.

IIRC beyond the seal difference frosty mentions there is a trunnion difference too. I cant remember if it is a different size or metal though.

The 1X reffers to greasable or non. I forget wich is which but you should be able to tell by openning the box. If its greasable than 1X is and if not than no 1x is greasable.

The new 760s are non serviceable. (you cant grease them). No need to add any more grease to them when you pull them out of the box either. I have seen the newer joints like the 760's last longer than the slip and stub portions of the new drivelines. You can easily get 100K on them (under on road conditions)

The non greaseable joints are supposed to be stronger because the crosses arent drilled to allow grease to get to all four caps.

the -1x does indicate greaseable. Dont get them, for the reason listed above and besides who wants to grease joints all the time????

I would carry the older style joint (with the rubber seal) for trail spares though. The rubber seals are way more forgiving than the new hard plastic seals. And usually swapping a joint on the trail isnt always done under ideal conditions.

Also when installing the newer joints with the triple lip seal, you will hear an audible click when the seal seats on the cross. you will notice when you pull the new joint out of the box that the caps arent seated all the way onto the cross. Dont mess with them until you are ready to install them. Its too easy to mess up the new seals, and if you crack one, you just ruined it (the seal) and to my knowledge you cant buy just the seal it self.


frosty

http://rocktaxi.com/Spicerpartlist.htm

This is pretty cool too.

http://www.rocktaxi.com/Spicer%20Ujoint%20Listing.htm

also the 760x has been proven in tech articles to be stonger than the 297 due to it being cold forged it was actually designed by spicer for use in the jeep rubicon.they wanted a stronger axle joint than what the 297 could offer

I found Domenic to be open today and went over. He has every Spiceru-joint known to man in stock.

Found the 3 1/2" u-bolts I needed while I was there too.

Alright to play devil's advocate, wouldn't it be better to give a little in strength for the ability to grease it and drive out all the nasties? This assumes greasing after every offroad trip.

Just wondering?

Yes using your assumption but than honestly answer yourself this question "when was the last time you greased your Ujoints ? "

I know I don't do mine as often as I should.

Supposedly you can index the joint so you don't lose as much strength (going forward) with greasable joints.

Wish mine were - as I actually grease stuff.

I don't see how that could work. The grease passages run out through the center of all 4 trunnions and over to the zerk fitting from the center line of the Ujoint. No matter how you clock it you have the same amount of material on each side. Maybe put the Zerk passage in so that the stub shaft is pushing on that side rather than an inner axle shaft pushing on it.

you have to index them, or the shafts actually, to cure DW.


















OK not really, but i did actually read that.

FWIW, i'm still running my non greasable OEM 297's. still tight.

You mean clocking the shafts so they are on the same spline in a locker for better stearing and less death wobble. THis only works on spools as the others allow slip and it constantly changes.

FWI the 297-1x that i have has the little needle type grease fitting in the end of the cap, not on the cross. Think I have decided against popular decision and am going to keep my greasable 297's.